Ruffage

The book's structure is its genius. By grouping recipes by vegetable and cooking method, Berens makes it easy to answer the everyday question of what to do with a particular vegetable, and the many variations encourage readers to improvise. Her farming background shows in the useful notes on growing, choosing and storing produce. Readers who shop at farmers' markets or grow their own produce will find it especially useful for using up whatever is plentiful.

The recipes themselves are simple but full of flavour, often combining vegetables with grains, cheese, nuts and bright dressings. Many dishes are vegetarian, though some include meat or fish as accents. The illustrations and photographs are attractive, and the tone is friendly and down to earth.

Because the recipes are deliberately brief, beginners may want more detailed instructions or exact timings. Some ingredients, such as particular cheeses or preserved items, may need substitutions. The book is large and heavy for kitchen use. For cooks who want to build confidence with vegetables and learn to cook by instinct, it is an inspiring guide. About 464 pages in the Chronicle Books hardcover; some listings say 304.